More Than a Meal
Wazwan isn’t a dish, it’s an occasion. Cooked overnight by specialist chefs called wazas, it arrives as a procession of slow-cooked meat courses served on a shared copper platter - a trami - that two or four people eat from together. At a Kashmiri wedding it can run to dozens of dishes. For a visitor, even a small taste is a highlight of the trip.
The Dishes to Know
Start with rogan josh, the famous red mutton curry that made Kashmiri food known worldwide. Then rista, tender pounded meatballs in a scarlet gravy; gushtaba, their delicate cousin in a silky yoghurt sauce, traditionally the final course; and tabak maaz, lamb ribs fried until the edges crackle.
The Ritual
Half the experience is how it’s eaten - shared, unhurried, with rice heaped in the centre and everyone reaching in. It’s food as togetherness, which is very much the Kashmiri way.
Taste It With Locals
Want to try proper wazwan cooked the traditional way, not a watered-down hotel version? Tell us on WhatsApp and we’ll point you to the real thing.
